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If you have any questions that arise from these tutorials, or you want to catch up on the latest photoshop & printing tips from the author, visit his new website:
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Bair Art Edition's Tutorial on:
Epson Professional Printing Workflow
How to Make Cheaper and Faster Proofs
This module contains information on making faster proofs, and two ways of making proofs cheaper by how you use your paper.
Faster Proofs!
This is something that you can do to make multiple proofs faster than you would if you simply made the image smaller in the Print Preview or driver.
The idea is to make a samll replica of the image that will spool much faster, but still yield the same results. Start by duplicating of the entire image: Image / Duplicate...
Now downscale this image to around 4 x 5" at 360 ppi (consult resizing images in Photoshop for more info). DO NOT FLATTEN the image, especially if it has adjustment layers!!! You may need those adjustment layers to tweek the image and make a few more proofs before you print.
When you print the image, use the same dpi output that you want to use on the final print (switching dpi changes color output).
The reason you make this smaller working copy is that Photoshop generally resizes much faster than it takes to spool and downsize the full sized image (especially very large ones). This trick is great when you end up having to proof three or four times before the final run.
If you need to adjust the image, simply do so in adjustment layers and proof again. Once you have settled on a proper proof, simply drag the tweeked adjustment layers back to the original image, and discard the older ones.
Note: Specific retouching, including stamp tool, healing brush, layer masks, and dodging & burning won't transfer. This method only works with adjustment layers. Retouching should be done to the original file.
Cheaper Proofs
Save all of your scraps when printing, and reuse them to proof with. On a 7600/9600, the printer will accept scraps that are 7 x 10" or larger. If you don't have any scraps to begin with, just chop off 8.5" off of a 24" roll (making an 8 x 24" 'sheet'). Feed it in as though it was an 8.5 x 11" sheet.
As you print, just chop off the 4 x 5 and 5 x 7 proofs as you go. This method is much cheaper than using pre-cut sheets which are much more expensive than roll paper.
Note: Canvas scraps are not as easy to use as paper scraps. If you try to do what is suggested above (rotate their orientation 90 degrees, the canvas usually won't feed past the lower set of wheels. As a result, the canvas will start bunching up and the print head will start hitting it.
Solution: Don't rotate the canvas, use "sheets" that are oriented the same direction as the roll is. This means you must cut 10" off of a 24" canvas roll, and then cut it up into thirds (three 8 x 10's). If you must use a piece and rotate it (because that is the size of a scrap), you will need to watch the canvas and even disrupt the printing in order to feed the sheet past the wheels once it gets that far.
More Tips and Tricks:
All images ©2003 Bair Art Editions
Copying is Prohibited
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Also, feel free to link to this site, and use any information for personal and/or commercial use. However, any reproduction of the information in this tutorial, including electronic publication, is prohibited without proper notification and citation of this site. This includes crediting our site and a link to this page in a conspicuous position relative to the copied information.
- Stephen Bair, Printing Technician
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Phone: 801-484-1028 Fax: 801-467-2729
E-Mail: heath@masterlabdigital.com
Mail: BAE c/o MasterLab, 2992 South Main Street, Salt Lake City, UT 84115
© 2007 Bair Art Editions
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